Bollinger RD Vintage 2004 Champagne 75cl 12% ABV
Only the very best vintages are elevated to Bollinger R.D. status. This unique expression of the generous and ripe 2004 vintage is a blend of 66% Pinot Noir and 34% Chardonnay from 16 Grand and Premier Cru sites which has been aged for more than 13 years in the heart of the Bollinger cellars in Ay.
Intense nose has abundant stewed fruit, candied fruit and nuts, accompanied by sweet spice notes. Flair in the mouth is characterised by a grand generosity. Intense cooked fruit ﬂavours and tarte tatin express themselves in a mouth that is full and harmonious.
'One of my most exciting wine experiences was when I first tasted 1975 Bollinger RD with my parents at their home. During yesterday's Sunday afternoon, I served them the latest edition of 2004 blindly. The 82-year-old's reaction did not allow for a wait. Mom immediately exclaimed "the same wonderful scent of chocolate and apricot like when we drank Bollinger RD in the 80's". So right she was. When Bollinger decides to launch the newest vintage of RD, the wine must have its distinctive autolytic character of freshly baked bread, chocolate, hazelnut and mushroom. That is at least the thought. I would like to say that the last vintage in 2002 did not have these features at the launch at all, but instead relied on an almost grassy elegance and refined acid structure in an remaining youthful attire. With 2004 it is different. It's precisely like this Bollinger RD should taste from the beginning. Nobody can be disappointed here. Perhaps, 2004, is not one of the most heroic vintages but on the other hand one of the most classic. The very essence of the RD concept is to try to capture a wine's optimal maturity along with maximum freshness. Unfortunately, I do not think life expectancy is as good as in the La Grande Année version, but I may be wrong. The intensity of the mature layers of dark chocolate, tobacco, black truffles from Vaucluse and a melancholy hiking in the moist autumn forest is, at least, impressive. The mousse may struggle to reach the surface of the glycerol rich essence of wine. Nevertheless, it tingles of lust on the tongue when stringency, chalk and jingling pure acids dance over the finish line. 96pts Richard Juhlin